It’s probably fair to say that Kona Coffee is the first American “craft coffee”.
Hawai’i, which became a US state on August 21, 1959, is the only state that grows and cultivates the coffee bean. As one of the state’s most popular exports, authentic Kona Coffee originates from a very small region of the western facing slopes on the Big Island of Hawai’i. The Kona district is a 22 x 2 mile section on the north and south side of the island that rest on the slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa volcanos. The unique weather patterns and rich heritage of its family owned farms has given birth to the superior coffee that is Kona Coffee.
There is a lot of varying information online about Kona Coffee. It’s a highly marketable commodity, so you may be surprised to learn that what you think is “Kona Coffee” not always is Kona Coffee. From information about growing conditions and bean characteristics to de-mystifying labeling and coffee classification, the below guide is intended to help you make more informed decisions when purchasing your next cup of Kona Coffee.
Table of Contents
- The History of Kona Coffee
- “The Champagne of Coffee”
- Contributing Factors to the Kona Coffee Profile
- Kona Coffee Growth Calendar
- Processing Kona Coffee
- Authentic Kona Coffee vs Kona Blends
- Kona Types & Grades
- Buy 100% Kona Coffee
- Kona Coffee Producers
- Protecting the Kona Coffee Heritage
- Other Coffee of Hawai’i
The History of Kona Coffee
The history of Kona Coffee begins with cuttings from Brazilian coffee plants brought to the Big Island in the 19th century. It only took a few years for coffee to become a commercial crop for Kona and by the 1890’s both Americans and Europeans were investing in Kona coffee. That investment financed the large coffee plantations needed to meet the worlds demand for this rich gourmet coffee. These plantations also provided work for Japanese immigrants who were fleeing the severe conditions of the Hawaiian sugar plantations.
The ride through the district of Kona took us through the famous coffee section. I think that Kona coffee has a richer flavor than any other coffee, but it grown where it may, and be called by what name you please.
– Mark Twain (July, 1866) during a visit to Kona
By 1899 there were 6,000 acres in Kona dedicated to the cultivation of coffee, and even more acreage throughout Hawaii. That same year, an oversupply of coffee on the world market produced a crash and Kona coffee prices plummeted, causing investors to shift their money back into sugar production. Kona’s mountainous terrain and lack of water made sugar cultivation impossible for their region. The era of Kona coffee plantations had come to an end.
Large coffee plantation owners began to lease out their land in small portions (usually under 15 acre parcels) – mostly to the Japanese workers now calling Kona home. Kona’s coffee plantations transitioned to smaller family owned farms which became the saving grace of the Kona coffee industry and established the “family farm” tradition that continues to this day.
Today, Kona coffee production covers over 3,000 acres divided between 800 farms, averaging less than 5 acres each. The annual production from these farms is more than 2 million pounds of coffee. Kona coffee is a boutique industry.
“The Champagne of Coffee”
Give Coffee This Year!
Kona coffee is considered by many to be the best coffee produced in the world. A lot of factors go into establishing that claim as true – namely the growing conditions of the region and the processing methods used by Kona coffee producers.
The french concept of terroir is something widely understood and valued in the growing and production of wine, and the understanding of that concept has now permeated into the coffee culture. Terroir roughly translates to “a sense of place” and how both environmental conditions and processing methods affect the nature of wine grape, or in this case, the coffee bean.
Below is an 8 minute video from Dr. Hans F. Eckert of Lyman Kona Coffee. In the video, Dr. Eckert explains in detail what makes the growing conditions in Kona so ideal; he also gives insight into how he farms, which contribute to the terroir of his coffee beans.
Contributing Factors to the Kona Coffee Profile
There are 9 different climate zones that exist in the world. There are 7 zones on the Big Island alone. The east side of the Big Island may experience over 200″ of rain per year, and parts of the west side may only receive 20″, or less, per year. There are rain forests and there are deserts; there are many beaches and there are two of the tallest mountains in the world – all on the Big Island. Kona’s coffee belt is a unique region in a diverse group of Hawaiian islands. There is really no other region of Hawai’i like Kona. Below are contributing factors to the Kona Coffee profile:
- Direction: Facing west, Kona receives the benefits of the setting sun as well as protection from the northeasterly trade winds by the Hualalai and Mauna Loa volcanos.
- Crop Rotations: Kona’s coffee belt sits on agricultural lands supported by hundreds of years of crop rotations from
Kona Coffee Belt
taro, sweet potatoes, breadfruit, sugar cane and bananas.
- Rainfall: Annual rainfall for Kona is 40 – 60 inches. Unique to Kona, its rainfall is the result of clouds formed in the afternoon sea breeze, sheltering the coffee from the worst heat of the summer days.
- Altitude: Kona coffee is cultivated between the altitudes of 800 to 2500 feet, the ideal altitudes for producing quality coffee. The higher elevations produce a brighter cup, however many farms between the 800 to 1000 foot elevation have produced award winning coffees.
- Below 800 feet is too dry and hot for coffee to develop.
- Above 2500 feet, the heavy seasonal rainfalls make farming coffee impractical
- Soil: The Kona coffee belt’s surface is formed by lava flow. Mineral soil has developed from the lava flows dating back to the Ice Age.
The coffee farms of Kona use a variety of growing, processing and roasting methods. Because of this diversity, Kona Coffee is not known for having one particular flavor. The Kona flavors will vary from farm to farm.
But this doesn’t mean that there are not identifiable qualities. Since all Kona coffee is grown in the volcanic slopes of Mauna Loa and Hualalai, each farm’s coffee will have an identifiable smoothness with an initial caramel taste, followed by a floral aftertaste.
Kona Coffee Growth Calendar
The growth calendar for Kona coffee begins in February and March, when the coffee plants first bloom. The blooms are called Kona Snow
“Kona Snow”
because of the small white flowers that cover the coffee trees.
In April, the Kona Snow blooms begin to transform into beautiful red berries. These red berries will mature for the summer months and be ripened for harvest in the month of August. The ripened berry is now called a “cherry” and is ready for picking.
The harvest season lasts from August through January. Each tree will be picked by hand multiple times and can yield up to 20 pounds of cherries. It will take 7 pounds of cherries to make 1 pound of roasted coffee.
Processing Kona Coffee
Harvesting: Within 24 hours of harvest, the cherry is placed in a pulper which separates the bean from the pulp. The bean is then placed into a fermentation tank for 12 hours.
Drying: Once removed from the tank, the beans are rinsed and spread on a drying deck called a “hoshidana”. The drying process takes from 1 to 2 weeks. To prevent the cherries from spoiling, workers will rake them, turning the cherries throughout the day and covering them during the night to avoid getting wet.
“Hoshidana”- Drying Deck
Once the coffee beans reach the desired moisture level, which is between 10-13%, they are stored as “pergamino” or parchment. The “pergamino” is the dry and crumbly skin of the bean and is easily removed in the hulling process of the beans. Once the drying process is complete the beans will be warehoused in sisal or jute bags until readied for export.
Exporting: Before export the beans will go through a three step process;
- Hulling: the removing of the parchment layer.
- Polishing: a polishing machine removes any remaining silver skin on the beans.
- Grading: the coffee beans are now sorted by size and weight; and evaluated for quality.
Coffee beans that are ready for export are referred too as “green coffee” and can be loaded for export. Green coffee beans are now ready for roasting, grinding and of course, brewing!
Roasting: the roasting process transforms the ‘green coffee’ into the fragrant brown beans we purchase. Most roasting machines will be maintained at 550 degrees Fahrenheit, and the roaster will watch for the beans to reach in internal temperature of 400 degrees. At 400 degrees, the pyrolysis process begins. That’s when the beans turn their familiar brown color and the oil inside begins to rise producing the flavor and aroma we love so much.
Grinding: how you grind your Kona coffee is important because its the process of transferring the flavor of the bean to your cup of coffee. Typically, the finer the grind of your coffee, the more quickly it should be brewed.
Brewing: Its the consensus of most coffee enthusiasts that to enjoy the flavors of Kona coffee, the Fresh Press is the best method for brewing. (How To Brew Coffee In A French Press) Whatever your brewing method, taking a moment to think of the journey of your hand-picked Kona coffee took before brewing will make each sip even more enjoyable.
Authentic Kona Coffee vs Kona Blends
Authentic Kona coffee will always be labeled as “100% Kona Coffee”, which is the trademarked label owned by the State of Hawai’i and identifyies the true gourmet coffee coming from Kona. Authentic Kona Coffee uses the bean variety Kona Typica – coffee arabica. This variety can grow up to 8 feet high producing small white blossoms and thrives on the Kona mountain sides at altitudes between 800 to 2000 feet.
Authentic Kona Coffee is a very labor intensive product. The difficult Kona terrain requires the beans to be hand picked. Because of the expense of hand picking, many retailers will produce a “Kona Blend”.
A “Kona Blend” is not a combination of different Kona coffees, but the mixing of Kona with other foreign coffees like Colombian or Brazilian. The minimum requirement to be called a “Kona Blend” is 10% Kona beans to 90% foreign beans.
Coffee using the terms “Kona Roast” or “Kona Style” is not true Kona coffee. This became a significant problem for Kona coffee farmers around the 1980’s when inferior, non-Kona coffees were marketing themselves as “Kona Coffee”.
To help protect the Kona coffee identity, the Hawai’i Agricultural Society created a grading system by which Kona beans could be inspected. This ensures both their quality and authenticity.
When you’re looking at a package of Kona coffee, you may notice that each type will have a different grade. Knowing how this grading, or classification system works, will help you choose the best coffee experience.
The classification system for Kona Coffee beans is divided into two different types, Type I and Type II. Type I is considered the higher quality bean over Type II, but both types are classified as Kona Coffee. The Types depend on the number of beans per cherry. For example, all the grades in Type 1 will have two beans per cherry and Type II will only have one bean per cherry. Each type is then categorized according to four criteria:
- Size: The size of the beans are usually judged on a scale of 10 to 20. The numbers represent the diameters of round holes in terms of 1/64’s of an inch. For example, a number 10 bean will be the approximate size of a hole in a diameter of 10/64 of an inch.
- Shape: Type I beans will be oval on one side and flat on the other, while Type II will be round.
- Moisture: The desired moisture level for a quality bean will be between 10% and 13%. Its the moisture levels that determine the flavor of the bean.
- Defects: The highest quality beans will have the fewest defects. A hollow, deformed or chipped bean can affect the quality and uniformity of the roast thus spoiling the consistency of taste.
Kona Types & Grades
Type I:
Kona Extra Fancy (This is the highest grade in type I, containing the largest beans with the highest moisture content and fewest blemishes)
- Size: will not pass through a 19/64″ round hole
- Moisture content: 9% – 12%
- Defects: 10 or less full imperfections per lb.
- Other beans: 50 or less non-Kona beans per lb.
- Undersize: no more than 10% by weight
Kona Fancy
- Size: Will not pass through a 18/64” round hole
- Moisture Content: 9% – 12%
- Defects: 16 or less full imperfections per lb.
- Other Beans: 50 or less non-Kona beans per lb.
- Undersize: No more than 10% by weight
Kona Number 1
- Size: Will not pass through a 16/64% round hole
- Moisture Content: 9% – 12%
- Defects: 20 or less, full imperfections per lb.
- Other Beans: 50 or less, non-Kona beans per lb.
- Undersize: No more than 10% by weight
Kona Select Coffee
- Moisture Content: 9% to 12%
- Size: Optional
- Defects: 5%
Kona Prime (This is a coffee label that does not reveal its grade is most likely Kona Prime. Kona Prime will be more affordable but compromises the 10% Kona coffee limit.)
- Moisture Content: 9% – 12%
- Defects: 25% defective beans, by weight
- Included therein no more than 5% by weight sour or black beans
Type II
Peaberry Number 1
- Size: Will not pass through a 10/64” slotted hole
- Moisture Content: 9% to 12%
- Defects: 20 or less, full imperfections per lb.
- Other Beans: 50 or less, other type beans per lb.
- Undersize: No more than 10 by weight
Peaberry Prime
- Moisture Content: 9% to 12%
- Defects: 25% defective beans, by weight
- Included therein no more than 5% by weight
Buy 100% Kona Coffee
If you’re interested in purchasing 100% Kona Coffee, we’ve curated a list of some of the highest customer rated beans available via Amazon. Some of the following products are direct from the farms. (supplied via affiliate link – thank you!)
Kona Coffee Producers
As referenced above, there are over 3,000 acres divided between 800 farms, averaging less than 5 acres each on the Kona coast growing coffee. While many of the farms are not large enough to produce coffee under their own label, there are many farms that do sell direct – either from their location in Hawai’i or online. We’ve taken some time to compile an active list of Kona Coffee producers with websites and 100% Kona Coffee available for sale (If we’ve missed one that you’re aware of, leave a comment below so we can add them to this list):
Some of these farms offer tours, so if you’re ever in Kona, look up your favorite farm and give them a call!
Protecting the Kona Coffee Heritage
The rich heritage of Kona Coffee is maintained by the Kona Coffee Farmers Association (KCFA). Their commitment to Kona Coffee is made very clear in their position statement and resolution., where they lay claim to the rich heritage that is Kona Coffee and support for its family farms.
According to the KCFA, Kona’s most prevalent variety has been the arabica coffee from Guatemala for over 100 years. The Kona Coffee Farmers Association (KCFA) views this variety to be the “standard bearer of the heritage flavor profile of Kona coffee.”
This Guatemalan variety is now commonly referred to as “Kona typica” and is backed by generations of Kona coffee farmers who have worked to establish its worldwide recognition and reputation. According to the KCFA, this
reputation built by Kona coffee’s heritage flavor profile allows Kona coffee to command some of the world’s highest coffee prices and these premium prices are a critical part of the continuing economic viability of coffee production in Kona.
KCFA Resolution:
- Reaffirms and restates its policy to protect and defend both the Kona coffee heritage and the coffee flavor profile on which this heritage has been built.
- Encourages all Kona coffee farmers to cultivate Kona typica coffee trees, to produce the highest quality coffee from those trees, and to continue to supply world markets with our renowned “Heritage Kona Coffee”.
Other Coffee of Hawai’i
While Kona Coffee is certainly the most well known in Hawai’i, it is not the only area in the state where coffee is grown and produced. There is a tremendous amount of diversity in both climate and soil types throughout the islands, leading to a rich diversity in coffee production as well.
Ka’u Coffees
The newest member of the Hawai’i coffee market, Ka’u coffee is grown on the south slope of the Mauna Loa volcano on the south-east side of the Big Island, where the climate is warm with periods of cool breezes protecting the trees from the afternoon heat. Sugar plantations converted over to coffee production in 1996, taking advantage of the mineral rich volcanic soil.
Oahu Coffees
There is only one coffee farm on the island of Oahu, Waialua Estates. The estate covers 155 acres on Oahu’s north shore and is owned and operated by Dole. The altitude is lower than Kona’s, producing coffee at 700 ft.
Maui Coffees
The regions of West Maui mountains, where Maui coffee is grown, are some of the wettest on earth. Maui coffee has experienced the most growth of all the Hawai’i coffee regions, expanding from just a few farms in 2005 to over 30 today. According to the Maui Coffee Association, the coffee yields in Ka’anapali were up 40% year to year in 2012.
Kauai Coffees
There is only one plantation, Kauai Coffee, in Kauai. In the 1980’s, the Kauai plantation transitioned from producing sugar over to coffee. Kauai coffee is known for its characteristic mellow and delicate flavors.
Molokai Coffees
Molokai is the island off the west coast of Maui and is basically populated by those involved in its very large coffee industry. The Muleskinner Molokai Coffee company is the producer of Molokai coffee and produces coffees characterized as having nutty and sweet flavors.
Conclusion
Thank you for taking this coffee journey with us. We will work to keep the list of producers as updated as possible. Leave a comment if you have a question or think we should add something… and tell us – what’s been your most memorable cup of Kona Coffee?
Craft Beverage Guide to Hawai’i
We recently published a guide to Craft Beverage in Hawai’i as well. Learn about craft beer in Hawai’i, wineries in the state, and craft spirit producers.
Thanks!
Thank you to the following publications for assistance in collecting information for this post:
photo credits: beggyberry & Crashworks via photopin cc
